You cannot blame the general British public, or even London’s dedicated followers of fashion if they are not totally up-to-date with all the emerging designers, and that’s just in the UK, because look overseas and you’ll be thrown into a frenzy of classics, vintage and of course the new talent. How do we decide who is worth looking at?

Whatever you do decide, make sure Hannah Marshall, another UK newcomer who showed in the British Fashion Council main tent for the first time last September, is at the top of your viewing list.

Marshall’s Spring/Summer 2011 show was perfectly executed – each of her pieces are wardrobe staples. With such a wearable collection and an interactive show – where she debuted a short conceptual film by Rankin – she is not one to forget in a hurry.

Entitled ‘Strict Machine’, the show was a perfect blend of whimsical, powerful and minimalist. Marshall’s engineering, albeit being extremely body conscious was based not on curves but on solid shapes and the idea to ‘lengthen and straighten the body’.

Although it is exceedingly lovable, it will take a particular type of aplomb, an almost discreet, serene confidence to wear Strict Machine. The show produced a beautifully muted palette of mint, chalk, nude, black and white, with gorgeous sheer, silk black blouses, high-waisted mint jeans with concertina-effect pleats that stand up around the waistline and incredibly sharp looking blazers, dubbed ‘razor jackets’ in tranquil shades of chalk.

As the show progressed, influences from Brian Dettmer’s progressive visual art became apparent and the transition from 2D to 3D fabrics saw pleats adorning all of the last few pieces creating impressive silhouettes without ever creating a desperate ‘look at me’ moment. A luminous show from a genius designer.

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